The front of the arms sandwich the main arm and come to a point after some whittling (see Picture 3). The arms are cut from wood and lap-jointed in place. Picture 2 show the arms that point over the front of the device. More wood filler is spread to smooth it out and then a hole is cut in the big shell and the paper cylinder hot glued in. The paper coil is then staggered to get that chamfered look. Picture 1 is the hole for big shell made from several strips of paper wrapped tightly round and glued. These are the little details that make it look the part. Sand it down with fine paper so it's nice and smooth for painting. Take time with this as it is where things will all smooth out and look neat. This is crucial around the parts cut with the scalpel to smooth it out and lose the jagged cuts. Go over the whole model and fill in any divots or gaps or uneven transitions with wood filler. I used Ronseal Wood Filler which spreads on like a putty and sets hard. The top of the can (the back of the gun) was cut off to bring it to length. Make sure to cut a hole in the same place on the foam as the can for the barrel to slide through. A big disc of the kneeling mat foam was cut and tapered to the diameter of the paint can and stuck onto the bottom. A hole is also cut out of the barrel for the clear window section to go in later. Two thin strips of foam were stuck to the side of the barrel and shell to add detail and little triangles of foam underneath the plastic window bits to fill in.
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